Heating and cooling accounts for as much as half of a building’s energy use. We believe in offering our customers products that can achieved the highest efficiencies for your heating and cooling needs.

Highly efficient qualified products prevent greenhouse gas emissions and cut down on how much you spend on your monthly utility bills.

Just like a vehicle, your building comfort system requires routine maintenance to keep it running at its best. Without routine service, heating and cooling systems waste energy and are more likely to break down. However with the proper attention, they can keep you comfortable year-round. We specialize in proper service to keep your system running. However, there are a few basic things that building owners can do.

  • Heating Equipment
  • Blowers
  • Thermostats
  • Humidifiers
  • Filters
  • Duct Cleaning

Heating Equipment
Heat pumps and gas fired equipment and boilers need a yearly professional inspections and tune-ups. Gas-fired equipment burns cleaner then oil but still need service on a yearly scheduled maintenance program. All heating and cooling equipment can only be serviced by a licenced professional. If you are not one please don’t touch it. For everyone’s safety.

Step 1
A close inspection will uncover leaks, soot, rust, rot, corroded electrical contacts and frayed wires. In rooftop heating equipment (forced-air) and boiler (hot-water) systems, the inspection should also cover the chimney, ductwork or pipes, dampers or valves, blower or pump, registers or radiators, the fuel line and the gas meter or oil tank, as well as every part of the rooftop or boiler itself.

Step 2
Next, the system should be run through a full heating cycle to ensure that it has plenty of combustion air and chimney draft. Flue gas analysis, combustion analyzers and manometers are used to check for sufficient draft and also test the air for carbon monoxide and proper combustion.

Step 3
Finally, it’s time for the down and dirty task of cleaning the burner and heat exchanger to remove soot and other gunk that can impede smooth operation. For the burner, efficiency hinges on adjusting the flame to the right size and color, adjusting the flow of gas or changing the fuel filter in an oil-fired system. A check of the heat pump should include an inspection of the compressor, fan, indoor and outdoor coils and refrigerant lines. Indoor and outdoor coils should be cleaned, and the refrigerant pressure should be checked.

Tuning up the distribution side of a forced-air system starts with the blower. The bearings should be lubricated; blades cleaned and motor checked to insure the unit isn’t being overloaded. The fan belt should be adjusted so it deflects no more than an inch when pressed. Every accessible joint in the ductwork should be sealed with mastic. Any ducts that run outside the heated space should be insulated.

While thermostats rarely fail outright, they can degrade over time as mechanical parts stick or lose their calibration. Older units will send faulty signals if they’ve been knocked out of level or have dirty switches or contacts. Modern electronic thermostats, sealed at the factory to keep out dust and grime, rarely need adjusting. However, whether your thermostat is old or young, the hole where the thermostat wire comes through on the outside walls of your building need to be caulked, or a draft could trick it into thinking the room is warmer or colder than it really is.

A neglected in-duct humidifier can breed mildew and bacteria, not to mention add too much moisture to a building. A common mistake with humidifiers is leaving them on after the heating season ends. Don’t forget to properly shut them down, shut the water valve and drain the unit. A unit with a water reservoir should be drained and cleaned properly to prevent dieses. Mist-type humidifiers also require regular cleaning to remove mineral deposits.

Most buildings with forced-air equipment have filters made from loosely woven spun-glass fibers designed to keep it and its ductwork clean. Unfortunately, they don’t improve indoor air quality. That takes a media filter, which sits in between the main return duct and the blower cabinet. Made of a deeply pleated, paper-like material, media filters are at least seven times better than a standard filter at removing dust and other particles. An upgrade to a pleated media filter, or HEPA filters will cleanse the air of everything from insecticide dust to flu viruses.

Pleated filters have an increased area of filtration, this accounts for the filter’s long life. The only drawback to a media filter is its tight weave, which can restrict an air handlers ability to blow air through the building. To insure a steady, strong airflow through the building, choose a filter that matches your blower’s capacity.

Duct Cleaning
A maze of heating and air conditioning ducts runs inside the walls and floors of 80 percent of Canadian buildings. As the supply ducts blow air into the rooms, return ducts inhale airborne dust and suck it back into the blower. Add moisture to this mixture and you’ve got a breeding ground for allergy-inducing molds, mites and bacteria. Many filters commonly used today can’t keep dust and debris from streaming into the air and over time sizeable accumulations can form — think dust bunnies, but bigger.

To find out if your ducts need cleaning, pull off some supply and return registers and take a look. If  dirty, you should probably invest in a duct cleaning.

Professional duct cleaners tout such benefits as cleaner indoor air, longer equipment life and lower energy costs. Clean HVAC systems can also perform more efficiently, which may decrease energy costs, and last longer, reducing the need for costly replacement or repairs. Cleaning has little effect on air quality, primarily because most indoor dust drifts in from the outdoors. But it does get rid of the stuff that mold and bacteria grow on, and that means less of it gets airborne, a boon to allergy sufferers.